BrickSpeed

I hope so. I've had pretty good luck with alpine stuff though. I suspect I'll be following this purchase up soon with new speakers hahaha

Yea it for sure didn't want to get the trigger off the Coil with the setup for the hall. He's got a pertronix ignition points replacement module so we were thinking about getting the signal from that to the MS box. But that was too much scope creep for a Sunday night.

Sounds like the pertronix 12v triggered square wave should go into the logic circuit, which can be setup like a hall effect sensor (right?) Then from that we can go into a crane hifire box or other type of ign amplifier, then to the coil.

It all seems simple enough now that I've sat down and reacquainted myself with the megamanual, but at the time it was kinda overwhelming.

I'm going to put up some diagrams to have as a reference, Nick would you mind taking a look at them when I get them posted to see if I've made any errors.

Man history keeps repeating it's self: like 2 years ago and I forgot all about it. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=191162

Ooo nice choice

As promised!

ordered a head unit for the car today, finally. alpine CDE133BT. will make a determination on the speakers later, and probably end up migrating the sub from the evo into the wagon if I can find a spot to stash it without sucking up a huge amount of space.

Sounds mean! What are you hoping to make power wise?

Thanks!

I see alot of Volvo's everyday at work, and this still has to be my favorite model. Lots of character and fun to drive!

Just look on the insulation.. when it says every metre PP / PE / HDPE / LDPE it is fuel resistant

These threads make me want my own 122... Looks great!

Cleaned the contacts and got the dome light and glove compartment lights to work. It's the little things that you appreciate.

Also, painted the hubcap centers red and dressed the tires. Pictures in the AM.

There's really only two ways you build ignition circuits on MS: Logic trigger or use a BIP module to directly fire the coil. The logic trigger uses pull-up resistors on the LED's and the BIP module is a drop-in IC that gets wired directly to the processor outputs. They both interface through the LED's. The method in which coils are driven haven't changed since MS has had the ability to control ignition. The ignition system you have will dictate what circuits you will use.

If Justin's MS is currently triggered off of the ignition coil and you modded the input circuit to emulate how yours is set up then no, it won't work. The input circuits are different between hall, VR, and negative coil triggers.

I have the proper intercooler (via Badvolvo's stash) for this car

Any chance the idle issue is due to an aftermarket cam? My vv71 is fairly lumpy if the idle is low.

Can you post a video of it running?

I've been pouring over the mega manual trying to find the current mods to a v2.2 board to add spark and whatnot.
What I've been reading: http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
It has a lot of diagrams, none of which are how my board is modded so I'm guessing something's changed over the years.

Back story is this weekend I flashed Justin's (blu92in99) '71 140 from fuel only MS1 v1 (8x8 table) to HR10G code. The reflash was simple and went great, got a good tune on it with the new 12x12 tables and it was running great.

Then I get the idea, well why don't I mod the board for spark so next time all we need to do is wire the db37 and won't need to crack open the box. I duplicated the wiring from my MS1 v2.2 MSnS-E board (which I've been running for years). First off it just didn't work, the non spark modded board got the RPM signal from the neg of the coil on pin 24 or something, and the spark modded one didn't like that. We didn't have time to get everything straightened up. So, I removed the jumpers and resistors that I added for the spark, and the board was happy again.

To prepare for the upgrade properly I thought I'd ask what people are now doing to add spark to their v2.2 boards. The question is, where should I go to find the latest modality for adding spark to a V2.2 board? I don't exactly know if he's going to use a Bosch ign module or EDIS I'm guessing that changes how the board needs to be modded.
Thanks!

TLDR: Whats the current popular way to add spark to v2.2 MS boards, there are a lot of choices, which one should I do?

^ is the V band connector weld is broken at the turbine outlet flange. An exhaust leak before the sensor will certainly cause erratic O2 readings.

^That will be fixed soon enough.

Thanks for the encouragement! Can't wait to get started

for springs I'm running the Tru-Coil 5x10.5" from speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-Coil-R...5,165.html


In the rear I'm running 245 springs (cut to length) with the 240 upper perches installed. Be sure to use the upper perch bolt from the 140, not the 240 as the thread pitch is different.

you'll need to trim the bump stops as well.

(02-17-2012 11:14 PM)The Vintage Wrote:  ok, I forgot to mention that I have replaced the ambient air temp sensor and also the Djet ECU with a model correct replacement. I'm assuming it's running lean because after the warm start, the idle is super low until I open up the throttle then, I get a lumpy but better idle. After I get moving, the engine idle sounds fine. I don't have a wideband sensor so I could be completely wrong.
As for the jerking, I'll try and describe it a bit better. When I drive downhill/uphill, the car doesn't jerk at all after I accel or decel; it only happens when I'm driving on flat ground while apply really light pressure on the pedal; especially making small, light adjustments on the pedal.
The air temp sensor is commonly unplugged, I found mine this way from the PO. When I plug it in the car runs like crap with a low idle, poor throttle response.

The jerking is likely the TPS sensor on the throttle body if the jerking is at certain throttle positions only. You can pop the dust cover off and clean the contacts, it may need to be replaced.

yeah that's probably my fault then, I think I said 1k pullups because that's what I've got on the bench and what I'm using in the gold car.

Never really had an issue with nox on mine, and it's a non-EGR car even. Before/after nox tests showed minimal difference...