BrickSpeed

Still chasing leaks. Today I replaced the rear cam seal and tried again to get the oil pressure sender to seal. We'll see.

Also, Gabe and I traded wheels for fun. He's running my Sculptors on his S60 and I'm running his Tethys for a couple of weeks.

   
Meh... not sure if want.

Actually Anya's already vetoed any permanent trade. She likes the Sculptors better, and honestly, I think I do too but its still kinda fun trading just to see what other wheels look like.

flow diesel through that radiator to be safe then flush it out

I did a while back, but cant remember the numbers, #1 was something like 187psi, and the 2 in the middle were around 140 psi, and #4 was around 160. I'll have to do it again and see.

I did the water pump today, and it wasn't hard to do at all. Although I found the radiator was nice and clogged with shitty brown sediment to the point where I had to squeeze the hoses with the radiator cap on to push the chunks out the drain valve. Flowed water through it for a bit with the hose, so I'll see if that'll do, if not a new radiator is a click and a couple days away via radiatorbarn.com.

Saab is probably similar. Just gotta get the parts from a few years earlier car.

xpoast from O/T 5E

(Yesterday 03:00 PM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  with zero provocation and nothing but a soft (click) while cruising, the shift arrow installed itself on the instrument cluster on the way back however. suspect relay is suspect, spare in play
going to go swap relay, report findings in a few via edit.

*edit
(Yesterday 03:29 PM)Wagonfetish Wrote:  Coupe; check the fuse first (#15, bottom row, closest to driver iirc)
(Yesterday 03:44 PM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  they ALL say 15 on 'em

position 15 is a few clicks in and apparently climate control, i can't find the ashtray in thr trun at the moment but i did find RWC's GT fogs and brackets that i failed to transfer to him

now i gotta track down the illustration that says what relay is where, k-jet.org here i come!

edit: fuse legend located, fuse blown, good call wagonfetish!

compression or leak down test it yet?
compression or leak down test it yet?

My 164 had a sticking master cylinder causing the front left brake to drag. I changed the calipers and the flex lines and it still stayed stuck on until the next owner after me replaced the master cylinder. I had too many cars to work on to keep spending money on it.

Your car looks very solid. Wish you well with it.

OK i've done a T belt on a 960 before, infact it was the first T belt I ever did, and it was mostly done in the dark with poor equipment.

So question time, where is the TDC mark on this thing? I know the cam gears point up and to the middle, I was just going to set everything to TDC and call it good, is that a good method?

Anything I should know about changing the water pump? I have a hepu pump. I was doing the upper and lower hoses, should I do the expansion tank hose too?

I am doing the rollers but the dealer told me no point in doing the dampener, they basically never go bad. If i really need one i can go visit IPD friday.

Advice?

Doesn't look too bad on this one (being it doesn't have it's AC compressor). At least no worse than a Honda Civic or something.

(Yesterday 12:04 PM)scottyd Wrote:  Hurry up and do something. I'm living vicariously through you.
I scrubbed one whitewall last night. LOL
Wondering if the trim rings are factory? I'll snap pics. Super thin cheesey.
We decided to respray the wheel silver (argent?) considered body colored but
think silver looks good.

I'll see what I can do to pick up the pace.

Hurry up and do something. I'm living vicariously through you.

Thanks everybody for the input. Helps much! Now I have a direction to head.
But wouldn't you know it I woke up feeling like crap. Just in time for the weekend.
Should be able to get it in the shop.(a project in itself LOL) and up on stands.
Think I'll try and order a water pump today.

Yes, the waterpump is a PITA on a 900. Have fun! I had the displeasure of doing one in 1988 SPG I used to have.

(Yesterday 02:54 PM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  if it's like the 200 series it can be reset by removing the switch and a few good stomps on the pedal to re center the plunger, reinstall switch, check with DMM
And not only that (or in addition to, whatever) - the switch wont ever reset until it's removed. Once the pistons slides over to one side (pressure differential) the switch pops down and holds it there. This is so the warning light comes on and stays on until the owner takes it somewhere and has the brakes fixed.

Are water pumps a PITA to do on those or no?

Car is staying up here this time around. Was sent out today to run errands, so I spent the past 2.5 hours working on the car, and it's still not ready to start. So, going to do some repair work on the silver 245, get my stuff loaded up, then head out early Friday.

-J

Ordered a water pump for the Saab a couple days ago, should be here tomorrow ($36 shipped from RockAuto, and the part shipped from Carson, CA FTW!). Hopefully that was it's funny running hot issue (I've had it happen on toyotas and suzukis). Might do a radiator as well since I get the sense the one in it is clogged up, and there's no point in rodding them out anymore as another all metal one from radiatorbarn.com is cheaper than having work put into the existing one.

(04-26-2012 11:24 PM)FalunBrick Wrote:  getting a solid 30mpg in the truck! but its soooooooo slow
Probably feels like a rocket compared to the stock motor or the 22r/22r-e in the later trucks.

But since the 18r-c is probably worn out (as you say it's running badly) and it's a pre smog ride, why not go all out?

this truck is running really badly, whelp time to throw a v8 in it

Bump. How goes it?